Category Archives: Mississippi



such a great set by Centro-matic to close out Wigginstock 2012.

here’s the encore they did, “Love Has Found Me Somehow.” grateful thanks to Michael M for posting this.

just makes me smile…. what a way to end an incredible weekend of music.



Wigginstock 2012 video (Saturday only) [repost with part 3]


this is the final post with all three parts of Saturday’s Wigginstock official video.

Part 1

  1. Flint Hill Specials (1:06)
  2. Doc Dailey & Magnolia Devil (36:17)

Part 2

  1. Lauderdale (0:29)
  2. The Pollies (54:42)

Part 3

  1. The District Attorneys (0:03)
  2. Glossary (1:00:30) (repeats twice)
  3. Seymour (4:02:00)

unfortunately no Centro-matic video was recorded…

Sean has a blog post here with all of the links.


and some video…

Sad to leave Mississippi but not without a Trace…


so long Mississippi (hello Tennessee)

Natchez Trace Parkway — Tennessee River

Natchez Trace Parkway — up the hill from the Tennessee River

Natchez Trace Parkway — Colbert’s Stand

could not wrap my head about the correct pronunciation of this place. kept using the Colbert Report pronunciation…. Damn him!

this was definitely cool. i’m glad i took the 5 minutes to check this out….

Natchez Trace Parkway — trees

Natchez Trace Parkway — one of the scene views

Natchez Trace Parkway — Information Center just north of Tupelo

spent the night in Tupelo — god i love saying the names of these towns — and then headed down the Natchez Trace Parkway towards the “quad cities” (Florence, Muscle Shoals, Tuscumbia, and Sheffield, Alabama).


Alabama cotton fields

i was supposed to go back onto the Trace and head up to Nashville that way but after a bit of frustrating dithering around in Florence where i hit at lunchtime and it was a madhouse where i wanted to eat so i got the now gross to me junk food, i decided to scrap that and hustle up to Nashville.

when i crossed into Tennessee i was definitely a bit heartsick. i have gotten to see many nooks and crannies of Mississippi and it has been a good thing.



yeah yeah yeah. impulse control. blah blah blah. just bought a bunch of CDs yesterday. i know….

but this is Grimey’s — a store i’ve heard about for what seems like forever. and the guy who owns it, i’ve seen him play with Bobby Bare Jr. a bunch of times. it was the only reason i even dipped into Nashville on this leg of the trip. so i’m okay with it, though it was probably one of the last record buying splurges i’ll have in a very long time. when i get home the reality of a new job / career shift is going to make this look like the fantasyland that it is.

Grimey’s — Nashville, TN

so this is what i picked up. i truly needed more rocking — less mellow and flowy — music than what i got at Oxford. not that there’s anything wrong with that of course. but i was a bit horrified to realize i was almost falling asleep at the wheel this morning driving the Trace because i needed coffee, didn’t get enough sleep, and the music wasn’t energizing me. so i feel like i’m going to just accept this as part of my trip and move on.

  • Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy, Now Here’s My Plan
  • Divine Fits, A Thing Called Divine Fits
  • Dwight Yoakam, 3 Pears
  • Father John Misty, Fear Fun
  • JD McPherson, Signs & Signifiers
  • JEFF The Brotherhood, Hypnotic Nights
  • Kelly Hogan, I Like To Keep Myself In Pain
  • Menahan Street Band, The Crossing
  • Shuggie Otis, Inspiration Information
  • The Sugarman 3, What The World Needs Now
  • Sun Kil Moon, Among the Leaves (deluxe)
  • Waco Brothers & Paul Burch, Great Chicago Fire

the scene of the crime

i got help and awesome recommendations from a couple people at the store, but i ended up chatting with Noah Uman, a recent NYC (well Jersey City) transplant to Nashville. loved talking with him. much thanks for the kind conversation and geeking out about music. that was fun!

Noah Uman, former WFMU deejay (Coffee Break for Heroes and Villains) and really smart guy

Yo La Tengo promo material at Grimey’s. love this

Kopecky Family Band – in store at Grimey’s

when i was picking out my CDs all of a sudden these people started bringing equipment into the store with a purpose. turns out Kopecky Family Band was doing an in-store. yeah, more serendipitous timing / experiences. i stayed for this. they were really enjoyable. beautiful harmonies and you can tell they are really doing

Fud: Edley’s BBQ

grateful thanks to Clay Wallace, Nashville postcarder extraordinaire, for the recommendation of the closest bbq that did not suck.

Edley’s — Nashville, TN

Edley’s BBQ — Nashville, TN
Shrimp po boy with a bunch of sides


so now i’m holed up outside of Louisville, KY. onwards and upwards towards home.

Kentucky. yeah, that’s where i’m at!

W’12 video (Saturday only)


i’ll update these with times as i can (hotel wifi not able to handle the truth of youtube right now)…

Part 1

  1. Flint Hill Specials (1:06)
  2. Doc Dailey & Magnolia Devil (36:17)

Part 2

  1. Lauderdale (0:29)
  2. The Pollies (54:42)

Part 3


  1. The District Attorneys [___]
  2. Glossary [___]

unfortunately no Centro-matic video was recorded…

a little bit of Oxford and the beginnings of the Trace at Tupelo


apocalypse now

“…one look at you and i know it’s going to be hot”

while i appreciated the camp — a word i like about as much as the word “edgy” — of the Shack Up Inn specifically i already know it was not the highlight of this roadtrip. and the environs of Clarksdale, well i was pretty much sick as a dog and didn’t have the energy or enthusiasm to go delve into the museums and blues clubs like i should have and/or would have if i had been healthy. i have such a love affair for Mississippi at this point that i’m almost 100% certain i will be back, so i hope that i will be able to do a more thorough visit to these places at then.

Clarksdale is this somewhat large (comparatively) and sprawling metropolis in the middle of what i can only describe as a post-apocalyptic flatland hell. the arid cotton fields were some of the grimmest looking scenery of my trip thus far. and i forgot to mention that driving in from the south i saw at least three dead dogs on the side of the road (among other assorted roadkill). and to top that off, there were at least a handful of very skinny looking dogs wandering around the side of the road as i zoomed on by, thankfully only going 55 mph. at first i was like, “what the hell?!?” but then it seemed to make sense for where i was. this part of Mississippi has got to be a challenging place to survive in environmentally. living here seems difficult. it made me a little blue, no pun intended.

music for this leg: Elmore James, morphing into Centro-matic’s Candidate Waltz

very important t-shirt update™: Duquette Johnston‘s Club Duquette in olive with black type


so after more than a few cough-filled nights i am thrilled to be back on the road, albeit baby steps. not going to do a lot of long hauls but needed to get out of that temporary rut and mosey slowly north to see what awaits me in my messed up, molested by the storm, home of New York City.

Memphis was part of the original plan — and was not far from Clarksdale — but i’m pretty sure i’m still contagious / sick so a museum would knock me right back into bed so i’m going to conserve strength and cancel that leg. i’m sorry i won’t be able to meet up with a good family friend there but it sounds like the timing isn’t meant to be for either of us, so i’ll let the guilt go, as much as possible.

that’s one thing that i have noticed on this trip. i’ve had some real serendipitous happenings on this roadtrip from the start. not to jinx things or anything but i’m feeling truly blessed at some of the things i’ve seen and places i’ve been and people i’ve been able to spend time with. i’m very thankful. from Wigginstock 2012 on down to being where i am tonight it’s all feeling very connected and meant to be. don’t want to belabor this too much but it has been at the forefront of my mind when i’ve been making decisions about where to go and what to see. i find it comforting.

Oxford serendipity 1: Big Bad Breakfast food

Big Bad Breakfast — Oxford, MS

when reviews on Yelp say “trust me” and talk about the bacon being infused with yummy things they pretty much had me. if anything i think the reviews were a bit modest. some of the best breakfast i’ve had on this trip — and i’ve had a lot of breakfast.

Two eggs cooked to order and choice of bacon, patty sausage, chicken sausage, andouille, or country ham; grits or home fries; gravy (red eye, sausage, or tomato); and toast or biscuit.
Big Bad Breakfast — Oxford, MS

i got the red eye gravy (three types of gravy!!!), which the waitress said has a bunch of cool stuff, including Coke, in it. it was amazing.

since i knew i was just going to drive a little today and then crash / rest up for tomorrow, i got THE LAST GENTLEMAN (two piece plate of Coca‐cola brined fried chicken with potato salad and cole slaw) for dinner, plus a side of fruit salad. i’m very much looking forward to that later on.

wanted to mention that i’ve not heard so much laughter and what sounded like happiness (yeah, THAT) coming out of a kitchen before. i think that sinks into the food.

Oxford serendipity 2: The End of All Music record store

since this leg of the trip has been extended as i drag my feet up towards whatever havoc exists in New York City, i decided that it was okay to stock up on some supplies (i.e., music).

The End of All Music (sticker!)– Oxford, MS

supremely happy to have stumbled upon The End of All Music, a small but mighty record store in Oxford, MS. they sell mostly vinyl but their CD selection was robust enough to get me into a medium flop sweat.

my retail flop sweats — especially those reserved for record stores — are legendary (at least to me). while listening to the sweet sounds of Will Oldham‘s new EP, i tried to be surgical in my choices. this is what i picked up.

  • A.A. Bondy – American Hearts
  • A.A. Bondy – Believers
  • Al Green – Let’s Stay Together
  • Chris Knox – Seizure*
  • Dent May – Do Things*
  • Destroyer – Kaputt (dang it i have this already oh well)
  • Grizzly Bear – Shields
  • J Dilla – Jay Dee Donuts
  • Lee Baines III & The Glory Fires – There is a Bomb in Gilead (embarrassingly late on this one)
  • Phantom Limb – S/T*
  • Reigning Sound – Live at Goner Records 6.26.05
  • Smith Westerns – Dye it Blonde

the guy at the store helped me choose some of these, which i think are local*. which i’m always happy for, as i’ve discovered cool music via record store expert recommendations in the past. i have a good feeling about this stuff.


in addition to the sticker i got this cool tote with my purchase. happiness!

cool tote from The End of All Music — Oxford, MS

as i look into the prospective job market, the fact that i fell for a town like Oxford, MS — home of the University of Mississippi — was super reassuring. it’s likely i will need to relocate for my first few library science jobs. if it’s a place like Oxford with great food, awesome record stores, and nice folks, well i’m happy to leave the bubble that is New York City. at least for a little while….

next steps

going to trip on up the Natchez Trace Parkway a bit, then dip into Alabama maybe, then head on up to Nashville, Louisville, and maybe Pittsburgh before hustling to vote in New York City next Tuesday. that’s my only deadline.

Natchez Trace Parkway

returning the car rental to LaGuardia looks like it’s going to be a challenge. plus i want to bring back groceries and supplies as it looks like those are not easy to find right now — and i left my cupboards pretty bare.

Clarksdale, MS


so i’m crashed here in Clarksdale, MS for a little while recuperating from a nasty cold / sore throat. seeing as where i am staying is much larger than my apartment in New York City — and has a full kitchen — it feels like luxe digs.

still feels bizarre to not be home during this crazy storm. glad everyone i know of so far came out relatively unscathed.

Shack Up Inn artwork

Shack Up Inn artwork

Shack Up Inn artwork

Shack Up Inn bottles

i was hungry but it was sort of hard to find the same yummy victuals that i easily found in New Orleans and Wiggins (heck yeah) so i followed some kind recommendations and got food from this Lebanese-Italian (?!?) place called Rest Haven Inn in Clarksdale.

Rest Haven Restaurant — Clarksdale, MS

i still don’t get grits. too much of a northerner maybe? is Nebraska northern? i don’t know. but thank god everyone has potatoes / hash browns.

Clarksdale, MS

more Shack Up Inn artwork

happier than words can express to go to the HUGE (to me) Kroger’s and stock up on some much needed supplies like bottled water, cold medicine, throat lozenges, soup, tea, vitamins, and fruit. they had like 4 aisles of frozen food. so much food in this world it’s almost ridiculous how we take this bounty for granted.

almost went through some gross drive-thru but was strong and held out for Abe’s BBQ. so glad i did that. the woman who helped me choose what to get was so nice and i have been driving by Abe’s every day so am so happy to have had the iconic Abe’s finally….

Pork BBQ sandwich from Abe’s BBQ

unlike other BBQ i’ve had, this had super vinegary cole slaw on the sandwich. i liked that — and the meat was pretty freaking great — but it was definitely a tang i wasn’t expecting. the sandwich was hot and delicious and surprisingly light for BBQ. highly recommend.

tamales at Abe’s BBQ

these were spicy as all get out. whoo! but very good.

not sure of the correlation between BBQ and tamales. i’m used to tamales only being served by Spanish-themed restaurants in New York City. but i’m a fan of tamales from my time in Los Angeles pre-riots so i always try them if i can. spicy, like i said. the woman helping me suggested having chili and cheese on top, smothering them, but i think it would’ve been too much for me. i like my tamales dry i think.

the best tamales i ever had — my gold standard as it were — were the tamales from the Von’s right down the street from my apartment on Bimini Place. the Von’s at 3rd and Vermont that got burned down during the Los Angeles Riots. they were amazing. oh man…. just thinking about them. yum.

medicine is working and honestly, i am giving myself a day or so more and then am hitting the road, sick or not. i want to get home soon and see my city that has been hurt so badly. start back up on my life and get things going there.

thanks to anyone still following me on my journeys…

and a look back at what got me here…

Centro-matic’s encore at Wigginstock 2012. “Love Has Found Me Somehow” with Will Johnson demonstrating the dance that is sweeping Denton, Texas, and the world: The Trash Compacter.

Mississippi Delta


it is beyond weird to be in the Mississippi Delta while everyone in New York City and the eastern seaboard is dealing with such a massive storm. i feel like i should be home but i spent Irene curled up in a fetal position in my closet worried my windows were going to blow out so yeah i’m fine with being up here chilling.

Sunday morning breakfast

had the ritual Sunday morning breakfast at The Sawmill, which as always is completely wrong on most maps. i got headed up north towards some amorphous sawmill and was going 65 mph before i remembered i did this last time, that Sawmill is down south of where we were….

banana puddin at The Sawmill — Wiggins, MS

they have a buffet but i needed some solid sustenance that was of the breakfast variety


panorama of post-Wigginstock breakfast


leaving “home”

that would be the Wiggins home…

not going to lie. got a little moist and sad on the drive up north.


music for this bit was Centro-matic’s new record, then as i started going into the Delta (essentially when i first spotted cotton on the side of the road) and had to drive 55 mph, i pulled out the Elmore James. heck yeah!


found this cool fruit stand on the side of the road. had a crazy yummy sandwich from there (sorry no pic) and sweet tea and some okra chips and started feeling okay / hopeful about the upcoming adventure.

Country Tyme Fruit Stand
(601) 268-0854
7760 U S Highway 49, Hattiesburg, MS 39402
Near the intersection of U S Highway 49 and US-49/Ryner Rd

Country Tyme Fruit Stand — Hattiesburg, MS


Blue Bell Rainbow Freeze
procured from Country Tyme Fruit Stand — Hattiesburg, MS

the center has concentric nested circles of color inside — highly recommend this
Blue Bell Rainbow Freeze
procured from Country Tyme Fruit Stand — Hattiesburg, MS

heck yeah! Okra Chips of AWESOMENESS
from Country Tyme Fruit Stand — Hattiesburg, MS

sorry to say i didn’t investigate this rest stop’s historical attraction. my throat was getting sore and i could tell it was going to be a bit of a challenging haul to get up to the Delta before dark. regret not taking the time.

Pocahontas Mounds rest stop — US Route 49, Mississippi

Shack Up Inn

my home for a little bit while i recover from a bad sore throat / cough / cold. wasn’t sleeping much and it was freaking cold at W’12 so i’m not surprised i got sick. okay though to have a welcoming, sweet place to lay my head.

Shack Up Inn — Clarksdale, MS

am pretty sure Stevie Ray Vaughn did a cover of this…. this CD has been my soundtrack since i got to the Mississippi Delta.

seems fitting given the storm hitting the east coast….